Tanzy's Chinchilla Rescue NZ.

Taking in Rescue and Unwanted Chinchilla's

Interacting With Chinchilla's

When a new chinchilla owner brings their chinchilla home, they are often told to let it settle down for a week and keep all daily activities to a minimum. This is not quite correct. If you follow that advice - your chinchilla will get use to not being handled and may become aloof, but in saying that - don’t let your chinchilla out for a play and think it will come straight up to you either. You need to get to know your chin and your chin will need to get to know you. It’s also wise to point out not to go to the extreme either, as mentioned previously - your chinchilla will adapt to your routine, so making a huge fuss over the wee one when you first bring it home then a few weeks later, hardly pay any attention at all to it is not good either - it needs consistency.

When you approach the cage, talk with a soft and gentle tone and call the chinchilla by name and walk up to it slowly. Open the cage and replace the food and remove any remnants, all the time talking to your chinchilla. Leave your hand in the cage so it can get familiar with your scent, you can also offer wee treats, but just be aware, if you offer treats each time you approach the cage, your chin will soon associate you with food and will be more interested in seeing what you have to feed it this time around.

When I bring new chinchillas home, or have new rescues arrive, I keep contact up and often sit in front of the cage with my arms inside and talk softly, and within the first week - each one was running up my arm and having a good nosy around. Some snuggled in around my neck and went to sleep. But they all let me pat them and pat under their jaws and their tummies. They are very curious wee creatures and very interested in exploring.

Younger chinchilla's are easier to ‘tame’ than adults, but they just need a little more time really, so don’t let that put you off getting an older chinchilla. With time, patience and care - your chinchilla will soon be running up your arm as if it has always done so.

Once your chinchilla knows you and you know your chinchilla - you will enjoy the time together and with the chinchilla being out of the cage too. If you want the chinchilla to have ‘free-time’ (time out of the cage) and hooning around the floor - then do so, but only when it knows you and trusts you, and make sure all dangerous items are put away, keep all free time activities supervised.

Abbey getting a wee tickle

Handling

Chinchilla’s, while robust, do have delicate bones, and as such, you need to be careful with how to handle your chinchilla otherwise making a quick grab for it, could break a bone or two. And you should never grab a chinchilla by the tail, it could break and in more than one place. If you need to catch your chinchilla and all you see is tail - put your hand as close to the base of the tail as possible (so your hand is partly on the rear end of the chinchilla) and catch it this way and support it’s body with your other hand. Easier said than done I know - took me 8 months to feel confident enough to do this myself.

If your chinchilla is tame, simply putting your arm out could get it up to you, if running around the floor, offer some dust bath when you want it to go back into the cage, a rare chinchilla will pass up this opportunity. If that fails, cornering the wee one in a small place can work - get on your hands and knees and scoop the chinchilla up as you would in the cage.

Chinchilla's need to feel the support when being held - so should never be held in a ‘clumsy’ matter, if not for the fear of breaking bones, or making the chin feel more secure, remember - they are agile and if holding with one hand, could easily wriggle away and jump for freedom.

Some Chinchilla's Postures
The postures of a chinchilla tell a lot about the mood, alertness, the intention and other expressions of the animal.

Holding Food - It is appreciating it's wee meal or snack.
Grooming Itself - It is relaxed and feel's at ease.
Standing Very Straight and Still - It is very alert. It can also be investigating the environment, perhaps a new scent or a strange sound, could be danger or just curious. It is ready to dash back to the cage/hiding place.
Sniffing One Another - One chinchilla is establishing contact with another. NOTE: Beware that a fight might start. If it is an adult sniffing a young one, the little one could be accepted by the adult. If it is sniffing your nose, you are being greeting and accepted as another chinchilla. Perching next to each other is a sign of acceptance too.
Lying Around Doing Nothing - Either it's tired or just taking a rest or it is bored and decided to laze around. This is the best time to interact with your chinchilla. Play with it or introduce a new toy. Please note: do not confuse this with the 'sleep time' of your wee pet.
Standing Half Erect - It is anticipating that something will happen soon. Good time to teach new tricks and offer new food.
Chewing and Gnawing - It is trying to wear down its teeth. A good time to introduce a chew toy or block.
Waiting in front of the cage door - A begging gesture. It is asking to be let out of the cage or simply, it's waiting to have some time with you.
Persistently doing the same thing - It is thinking of ways to achieve its goal.
Withdraws to the corner of the cage - It is frightened and showing anxiety.
You should talk to it in a soft voice to calm it down. If all forms of coaxing fail, leave it alone for a little while.
Hopping and jumping around - Playing without inhibition. Let it play.
Standing straight with hind legs up - It is being very defensive. It is ready to shoot 'pee' at it's target - most likely you. Better leave it alone!!
Running around and nibbling here and there - It is curious. It is just checking out the environment to make sure the things are in the right places or if the thing is edible. It does not mean any harm.

Please remember one thing though - you know your pet and what it gets up to, this is just a guideline and not to be taken as 'gospel'.