Tanzy's Chinchilla Rescue NZ.

It is important that prior to bringing your wee chinchilla home, that you have the appropriate cage, will all supplies needed. If you buy a chin from a breeder, they often supply a few weeks worth of pellets, and depending on if you buy a chin from a pet shop, or privately, you may be able to purchase the chin and complete cage set-up (including food) at the same time, but here are some general things to consider:-

Cage

Before chinchilla’s became as popular as they are now, there was only one type of cage available and that was the wire one. Chinchilla owner’s now have a bit more variety of either wire or wooden cages.

Any reputable pet shop or supplier will have a variety of cages in stock for you to choose from. In saying that, chinchilla’s (while they are becoming more popular in NZ as pet’s) are still a relatively new pet, so some choices can be limited. Some recommend against buying plastic coated cages, as chins do chew, but having seen chins kept in this sort of cage I have to say, I have never seen evidence of this. This is the same as having plastic trays, or bottoms on cages. Some will chew, whereas others will not.

Wire Cages

The openings on a wire cage should be no larger than 1 inch x 2 inches for an adult. If you plan on buying a younger chinchilla, or even kits, the openings should be approximately 1/2 and inch x 1 inch due to the fact that the kits are small and will endeavour to escape. If you use a cage with a wire floor, the gaps in the wire should be approximately 1/2 an inch x 1/2 an inch. Generally, the wire is galvanised wire and the ‘square’ design.

 

Photo of a wire cage

Some wire cages also have a ‘drop through’ tray, basically meaning they have a wire floor to them and the cage either has a small pan under this that is removed to clean out the debris, or you need to lift the whole cage up in order to clean under the wire floor.

Wooden Cages

Generally, you will need to find a builder, or someone who has made wooden cages, in order to get one for your chin, as it could be a very rare pet shop that would sell a wooden chinchilla cage.

There are some important points to consider in the wood that is used and those are:-

The cage must be made from untreated pine or oak if your chin has access to chew at it. There are some wooden cages that have MDF (custom wood) used for the top, bottom, sides and back, and if there is no possibility of these pieces being chewed then it could be used.

However, the frame, and if you plan on using a ‘draw’ type bottom (where you have a handle to and are able to slide the draw in and out), must be made from untreated pine or oak, as your chin will chew at what it has access to. As I have previously mentioned, chinchilla’s do love to chew (and need to do so) and any wood that is treated, or have glue in it, could cause the chin some serious health problems and possibly die.

The cage front should have a wire front to it and cut to measure against the front frame and door. The wire should be attached using a staple gun, or ‘u’ nails, but ensure they are firmly embedded into the frame and not able to be pulled out by your chin - ingesting this would cause death. A sturdy chicken wire (again, the square shape design) is best and the square spaces should be approximately 2 cms x 2 cms, or 1.4 cms x 1.4 cms.

Many wooden cages have a solid bottom to them which is preferred by a lot of chinchilla owner’s, as there is no chance of foot injury (caused by slipping the foot/toe) through a drop through the wire and catching it - either spraining, breaking, or cutting a part of the toe off), and the shavings are warmer and also prevents drafts. This type of cage is also good for new born kits, as they can die quickly from a chill then they are first born.

Cage Size

As with any pet - the bigger the cage the better. We would recommend a cage size (for a single chinchilla) to be approximately 24 inches x 24 inches (minimum) as a good starting size. It should include enough height for adding a minimum of two shelves. If you are planning on getting a pair, obviously they will require a bigger cage.

Cage Location

Once you have chosen a cage, you will need to find a good location for it, inside your home.

Chinchilla's need to be out of drafts and not placed in direct sunlight. This is due to their thick fur and chinchilla’s can get overheated very quickly, there have been cases where chins have died due to heat stroke, from being in a warm, sunny room, so it can be fatal and should not be taken lightly.

Also, a cage should not be placed on the floor if you have other household pets, a stray paw could do major damage to your chin, and while, hopefully, a rare case, but all the same true - a small dog (terrier) got into a chin cage, by ripping the wire open, that was placed on the floor, the dog got the chin and killed it.

Wherever you decide to place your cage, ensure there are no electrical cords or household plants near the cage - believe me, your chinchilla will find a way to get to the cords, or plants, and have a grand ole time nibbling away, which as you could imagine - be fatal.

Chinchilla's are incredible, that while in the cage, can fine ways to pull things in which can be wires, plants, curtains, even wallpaper and getting at the paint on walls/wood. One easy way to fix this, if you have a wire cage, is get an old sheet (light) and cover the back and sides of the cage, not only should it protect your cords etc, it will also help keep drafts out of your cage and help make your chin feel more secure.

Chinchilla’s are nocturnal, which is already covered, but as such need a place to sleep during the day and if your cage is in the middle of the room, or in a frequently used room, distractions will occur that will prevent your wee pet from sleeping, or disturbed sleeping, which will not make for a happy or healthy chinchilla. The best place for a chin is against a wall and preferably in a corner of a room that is not used too much during the day. Now I am aware I did say "against a wall or in a corner", you will need to ensure that any wires etc are not within the chins grasp. Living rooms are not ideal as come winter months the fireplace will be on (which will make your chin hot) or you could have a gas heater - these do not have vents so they emit carbon monoxide into the air - imagine the damage if could do to your wee chin which has a very intricate internal system and delicate lungs!

Kitchens are no advisable either - kitchens are a busy room with stove tops and ovens being used as well as the jug and due to this - heat fluctuates which, again, would cause discomfort to your chinchilla.

Also, and this is a point of interest - with chins having a delicate internal system, which include lungs - things like smoke, from fire or cigarettes, fly spray, air freshener - can all damage your chin - so try and keep your chin’s room free from this. All my chins are in my bedroom, makes sleeping a bit of a nightmare, with surround sound chinchilla's playing and rattling their chew toys against the cages, but it’s not used during the day so is quiet for them. And I do not spray anything in there and use the bathroom for putting on deodorant or perfume. Besides - I like being with them when they do play so best choice for me.

Shelving

With some wire cages you will get them complete with wire shelving, many can be removed and replaced with solid wooden shelves, which is highly recommended. Your chinchilla needs something solid to stand, walk, jump and sit on. If too much wire is used then the chinchilla could develop bumblefoot (from having too much access to wire). When considering what sort of wood to use, untreated pine or oak is best. Treated wood contains phenol oils and as chins will chew, if ingested it can cause serious health problems and possibly death. Wood that is custom made, or MDF, or ply wood that has a few layers glued together, should all be avoided due to the poison contained in the glue.

Shelves can be attached to wire cages using a screw and washer, or if a wooden cage, simply drill a hole and screw the shelf to the cage.

Nest Boxes

Chinchilla’s need a place to rest and sleep and to get away from the prying eye’s, so they do need a nest box. Again, nest boxes need to be made from untreated pine or oak. Some use plastic igloo’s which seems to be enjoyed by some chin’s, although keep in mind that chinchilla’s will chew at the plastic.

If you are making a nest box for more than one chinchilla, you could give it two areas for the chin’s to enter and leave from. Also, ensure that all nails or screws are put in firm and cannot be removed by your chin.

If you look close enough, you can see Niko inside

Hammocks and Chew Toys

A chinchilla will find great delight in snuggling down in a hammock, or it will think that it is something else to chew. For this reason, a hammock should be made from polar fleece so if/when your chin chews away at it the fleece will come away in small pieces, which unlike cotton, comes off in threads and could choke your chinchilla.

       

Shay and Tinkie enjoying their hammocks

Cuttlefish and pumice are great for chin’s to chew away at, and unlike wood, it won’t splinter, and it is good for their teeth. Pieces of untreated pine or oak, or untreated pine bark and branches from apple trees (making sure all added wood is free from chemical sprays and have been thoroughly wash and allowed to dry), will also be enjoyed by your chin. Willow branches could be used as well. Chinchilla’s will not only chew the branches but you could place it in the cage to act as a natural branch for your chin to climb on.

To attach your toys - you can either use tie wire or a small chain (the links would need to be small). Chinchilla’s also seem to like bells, so a few people attach these at the end of the toy.

Dishes and Water Bottles

There  are many types of dishes  available. Some chinchilla owners  will have the heavy  ceramic type dishes, while others will have the stainless steel variety that attach to the side of the cage with a bolt or hooks, either are fine to use. Some have both - as some chins just love to knock their dishes off the shelves. These can be purchased at most pet shops.

Generally, chinchilla owners will have a smaller (ramekin size dish) for pellets, and a larger one for lucerne and/or hay.

Water bottles should be used instead of dishes as chinchilla’s could tip this over during the night and not only get the cage wet, shelving wet, food wet, their fur wet, but also go thirsty until you notice what has happened. Also, chinchilla's can drop their food in it and their ‘droppings’, which would contaminate their water. Many bottles have steel nozzles and the bottles attach to the outside of their cage while the nozzle goes through the wire so your chin has access to it.